Poza Rica
The rugged capital of the historic Totonaca coast, it's a land of palm trees, history, and an alluring rhythm blowing constantly in from the Gulf of Mexico.
Poza Rica is a historic city in the north of Veracruz. In local legend, the Toton peoples settled here in 1872 to ensure their continued access to rich fishing within a pool in the El Mollejón river, the rich pool of the town name. They soon expanded to the point that most of their settlement is today along the southern stretches of the Cazones River. With the 20th century, it quickly grew into an important center for petroleum extraction and services, and today some 190,000 residents call Poza Rica home.
People come for the Gulf Coast culture and music. And the town maintains a fierce reputation for seafood and cuisine served influenced by the Huasteca region to the north and the Gulf Coast's rich history. Itself the center of the Totonaca region, it's easily the largest city in the area and a place of great cultural influence and gravity. The city is well-served by the Museum of the City of Poza Rica, but don't miss the Casa de Teja archaeological and artisan museum. Totonacapan is the historic name for an even older region centered here around the fantastic city of El Tajín, itself one of the most important archaeological sites in this part of the country.
The city is centered around the Oil Workers monument and the Municipal Palace. Inside, you'll find an important mural by Pablo O'Higgins. But outside, people stroll the Benito Juarez parks and the surrounding shop-lined streets. To the south, the important Mercado Poza Rica and the (nearly attached) Paseo De La Burrita market are magnificent places to catch up on local cuisine, arts, and culture. You can get there walking in about eight minutes. The Paseo de la Burrita is named for the little train engine that used to pull cargo to the port in Tuxpan on the coast. An odd and beloved little monument, it stands on the paseo about 2.5 kms to the northeast.
Today, Tuxpan is about an hour away by car. And it's at the very north of the long stretch of golden beaches that line the famous Totonaca coast. Many visitors will pass through Poza Rica on their way to this fantastic and somewhat nostalgic beachfront.
Poza Rica itself is about fours from Mexico City. From the TAPO bus station, ETN, ADO, San Pedro Santa Clara, and Futura buses make the trip multiple times daily. Departing from Poza Rica for the coast is also easy, especially to Tuxpan, and the coastal roads are regularly served by combis and collectivos. The famous magical town of Papantla is only about 40 minutes to the south east of Poza Rica, and a destination all on its own.