Catemaco

Catemaco is a small town on the edge of a lake of the same name in southern Veracruz. Although the lake has long been a principle draw for visitors, the town also claims a place in the national consciousness for the supposed witchcraft and just indigenous religion that took root here and has remained an important part of the local culture since time immemorial. At home in Sierra de Los Tuxtlas mountain range, Catemaco's name actually means place of the burned houses, likely in reference to the eruptions of the nearby San Martin, and which erupted in 1664 and then again in the 1790s.

The lake is a favorite for visitors, but also important to the local practitioners for whom it is central to their faith. That won't stop most visitors from paddling off to the Los Monos or Agaltepec islands. Even more important, on the north shore of the lake is the Nanciyaga environmental center which invites visitors to stroll the surrounding rain forest trails to waterfalls and even spa services. Paddling closer to the boardwalk and the unspeakably charming town center is also encouraged.

At 1500 meters long, the Catemaco boardwalk is the very heart and center of the town. Tegogolos are an area favorite, although they are in fact a species of snail from the lake served in pico de gallo sauce. A trip here will certainly involve some measure of adventure, culture, mysticism and great food. And most visitors will also set off for slightly bigger San Andrés Tuxtla and the fantastic Museo Tuxtleco in Santiago Tuxtla in the same trip. The three towns together represent Los Tuxtlas. They're as famous for the continuing practice of indigenous religions here as for the stunning scenery, and the better than respectable beaches on the coast. Passage to the coast, though, usually involves at least some travel over unpaved roads, so plan on it taking a bit longer. The nearest Gulf Coast beaches are about an hour to the north,

People get here driving down from the Puerto de Veracruz. It's about 3.5 hours. From the airport at Minatitlan, it's only a little closer at just under three hours. Ecobus Express runs daily buses from Mexico City (TAPO) for the roughly seven hour journey to San Andrés Tuxtla, with stops in Alvarado and a few other places. A trip from San Andrés takes just a few minutes.