Pomoná
A remarkable seemingly indestructible mountain fortress, ceremonial site, and window into the shrouds of a mysterious and rediscovered past.
The Pomoná archaeological site is a remarkable and essential ancient town and site high in the wilds of the Tabasco panhandle. It's one of the chief reasons passengers disembark from the Tren Maya in Boca del Cerro, and with a small museum on site, it's one of the most accessible and informative places to learn about the ancient history of the region.
Although the city itself was only of moderate importance in its own time, today it stands as a staggering testament to the reach of the greater Maya Civilization originating in distant ancient cities like Palenque and Bonampak. It's often visited in combination with trips to these neighboring sites and it rose to prominence in partnership with them.
As a ceremonial city and a regional capital, it came to prominence between 600 and 900 CE, and then faded nearly entirely. The site was only re-discovered in 1959. The modern name Pomoná, derives somewhat indirectly from an inscription found at the site which reads "Pakbul." The ancient city includes no fewer than six major architectural complexes high in the foothills of the surrounding mountains. These include multiple monuments and temples and and stele depicting a high-ranking dignitary. Many of the most important carved works are protected within the museum on site. Some of them are simply jaw-dropping in their intricacy.
The sheer wealth of hieroglyphic inscriptions found here has led to a far greater understanding of relationships between Maya cities and the timeline of rulers who dominated these territories. For visitors, it's part adventure and part trip into the deep past of the Usumacinta canyon and river valley. The river long played an important role in trade connecting the Maya worlds of Chiapas with those of the greater Yucatan peninsula.
The site is only about 20 minutes from the Tren Maya station at Boca del Cerro and a further 15 minutes from the town and station at Tenosique. For those traveling from Palenque to Boca del Cerro, the trip is about 40 minutes. Traveling south from Candelaria in Campeche, the trip takes a bit less than 90 minutes.