Copainalá is a major town in the Zoque region of northwestern Chiapas. The name of the town is Pokio'mo to the people who live here. It's a serene mountain town with the mix of color and atmosphere for which so much of Chiapas is famous. Here the vibrant cultural heritage of the Zoque people comes to life, and the surrounding citrus groves make it that much more pleasant. Once deeply Catholic, the town still has numerous churches, but today people are more likely to stroll the town square and the surrounding streets.
The famous red tile roofs give way to the green of the surrounding mountains. The Nahuatl name can be roughly translated to place of the snake that ran. Founded in the 16th century, the town is famous for the mix of buildings that seem to welcome visitors and celebrate simply standing. The ever-present papelitos only add to the charm.
Don't miss the church of San Vicente Ferrer and the colonial-era monastery built by the early Dominicans. And don't miss the chance to eat. The zispolá chicken is made with a white chili and cabbage leaves, but that is really only the beginning. Traditional La Encamisada dances accompany nearly every meal.
Take off for the waterfall at Zacalapa where you can swim in perfect water pretty much year round. Winter months will be cooler, but also dryer.
People who aren't driving get to Copainalá from Tuxtla in one of the shuttles run by the Zoque Cooperative. (Sociedad Cooperativa De Autotransportes De Pasajeros Zoque) They run a number of different routes, but the white vans with a green stripe are unmissable in Tuxtla. The trip from Tuxtla takes just under two hours.
