San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende long ago reached legendary status in the Mexican desert. The town was founded on the site of Itzcuinapan, a settlement frequented by wandering tribes. A Spaniard named Miguel Palanca dedicated his later little chapel to Archangel Michael. And so the little town was known as San Miguel for centuries thereafter. Almost entirely abandoned after a flu epidemic in the early 20th century, it was only in the 1930s that the town exploded onto the international consciousness. A few different art schools set up shop, and increasing numbers of United States veterans of World War II started showing up. 

Some of them attended Bellas Artes here. Today, the same site is known as the Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez or more simply as El Nigromante. It remains one of the most important cultural centers in town. But the crowds today come to gaze at the San Miguel Arcángel church, a rare (more Mexico) neo-Gothic church that stands in as the backdrop for the countless visitor photos.  Nearby the Museo Casa de Allende gives you an idea of the General Ignacio Allende, a hero of the independence movement set in a classic Baroque building.

The Cañada de la Virgen archaeological site and the El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden both offer refuge if the city streets get to be too much. And the Globo San Miguel hot air ballooning event has grown into one of the most important in the country. If you get to go up, well, just imagine what a breathtaking view awaits you. It remains breathtaking even from on the ground.

The town enjoys a diverse lodging and hotel scene, and there is always plenty to eat.  San Miguel and the Sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco, about 30 minutes north, are together recognized by UNESCO as World Heritage sites. Atotonilco is a must-visit too.

Fortunately, numerous bus lines run the route two hours north from Celaya. (Check with Unebus, Flecha Amarilla, and Autobuses Anáhuac.) There are also direct buses from Mexico City Autobuses del Norte (about four hours), and from Querétaro (about two hours, 20 minutes). From the state capital at Guanajuato, the trip takes a little over one hour). But the Mexico City - Guadalajara passenger service will route most passengers for San Miguel de Allende once more through Celaya. The train is scheduled to resume in the late 2020s. The trip is going to be great!