Chalcatzingo is easily one of the oldest archaeological sites in Mexico. It\'s also key to understanding much of what happened afterwards. On the Puebla border, from Mexico City, most visitors will travel through Cuautla to get here.
The roots of Chalcatzingo go back to 3,000 BCE. Some of the continent\'s first architecture and striking bas-reliefs and sculptures from everything that happened since then. The site was first excavated in 1934 by archaeologist, Eulalia Guzman. In that year, or shortly before, a rainstorm unveiled the famous El Rey relief. Olmec groups from the Gulf of Mexico region are said to have transformed the very dynamics of Chalcatzingo beginning in around 1500 BCE. And this exchange is thought to have established the first trade routes in Mesoamerica.
The site is extraordinary. Visitors arrive for the ruins of the ceremonial center but end up staying for the spectacular valley and natural landscape. The petroglyphs alone account for the deep vibrations and connection with the past that can readily be experienced here. But the site museum will fill in any gaps in what more you might want to know.
The Volcanes bus line runs regular buses from the TAPO station in the east of Mexico City. Trips can take just over three hours. You can catch the same buses in Cuautla (itself a nice place to visit) and these take just 30 minutes. From Cuernavaca, look for Transportes Estrella Roja de Cuautla buses, to Cuautla.
From the very center of the town of Chalcatzingo, a taxi ride to the archaeological zone takes about seven minutes. Walking will take about 30.