Xallitic

Xallitic is the oldest and most beloved neighborhood in the very center of Xalapa, the capital of Veracruz. The name, similar to that of Xalapa itself, comes from the Nahuatl for spring in the sand. The name Xalapa  means simply place of sandy water. Xallitic was one of four ancient settlements here, the other three being Techacapan to the east, Tecuanapan to the northeast, and Tlalnecapan to the southwest. Although an exact date can't be pinned down for the city's founding, most historians agree that by the early 1300s people were permanently settled here. 

By 1778, public infrastructure here started to take shape to provide water for the surrounding town. This would most obviously be built within the Xallitic ravine where the spring was already bubbling out of the ground. Xalapa wouldn't be declared a city for a few more years in 1791, but the esplanade we see today became the place of the tremendous work of keeping domestic clothes and textiles clean. 

When you see the old lavaderos here, still working, but today not leaned over by women from all over the community, you should recall that this humble domestic chore provided the social cohesion that kept the neighborhood and the city together (and properly attired) for generations. Especially women gathered here to scrub out the accumulated dirt, but also to socialize, plan, and gossip. Between 1956 and 1962, the bridge we see today was built to span the ravine, and Xallitic only seemed to take on more of its fascinating character. Home washing machines wouldn't put the lavaderos out of commission for a another generation. 

Today the former Plaza del Rey is put to use every Thursday for Jueves de Xallitic, a weekly celebration with live music and dancing. It usually includes son, salsa, danzón, and mixes of these and more. There is food too. The Mercado Jáuregui is only a block to the south, and the food gets brought up fresh from there. The entire neighborhood is crooked and of a character that only these past few hundred years of civilization can provide. 

It's likely the most visitors will arrive to Xalapa from other parts of Veracruz. From the Port of Veracruz, the drive takes just under two hours. From Mexico City, it's about 4.5 hours. Both routes are well served by bus lines, but Xalapa remains one of the most important state capitals without major airport service. The airport in Veracruz is about 80 kms away.