Sultepec

Sultepec is a remarkable historical mining town in the rugged mountains of southwestern Mexico State. The town is officially the Villa de Sultepec de Pedro Ascencio de Alquisiras named for Independence-era hero, Pedro Ascencio de Alquisiras (1784-1821) who fought a number of important skirmishes here. There's an important monument to him not too far away in the neighboring town of Almoloya de Alquisiras. 

Sultepec is an important stop on the state's Bellezas de Nevada route that extends across most of the southwest. The biggest producer of Spanish silver by the end of the 16th century, it's was a remarkable and affluent town since its modern founding in 1523. The town was already an ancient settlement when the Spanish arrived. The Nahuatl name can be translated as On the hill of the quail. That transliteration only starts to break open the inherent charm and poetry of the place. People come to stroll the rugged center and the surrounding hills, but the tacos made from goat are just a prelude to the shortbread treats known locally as fruta de horno, i.e.; fruit of the oven. They're everywhere on sale. 

Probably more than anything, people arrive for the thermal springs at Sultepequito. Some of the most lavish in the area, they're about an hour's drive into the mountains to the southwest. Of course, the drive itself is nothing short of spectacular.  Right within town there are a whole load of colonial-era landmarks, just starting with the main church (dedicated to St. John the Baptist).  The main street market operates on most days, and it's just a first stop for the fruits of the oven and all kinds of culinary delights. 

Getting to Sultepec from Mexico City can mean a roughly four-hour voyage by bus. Lots of visitors arrive today from Toluca, which makes it even that much more accessible. Autobuses Zina sets off from Toluca and makes it to Sultepec in just about two hours.