Mercado Libertad

Mercado Libertad—better known as San Juan de Dios Market—is one of Guadalajara’s most representative architectural works. Did you know it’s one of only three 20th-century buildings in the city designated as a National Historic Monument? That’s right! Its innovative modern design earned it this prestigious recognition.

Architect David Lozano Díaz, head of the MoMo Gdl outreach project, guided us through this modern icon located in Guadalajara’s Historic Center. We learned about its origins, evolution, and the many transformations San Juan de Dios has undergone over time. Keep reading to uncover the secrets of Mercado Libertad.

How did Mercado Libertad or San Juan de Dios begin?

• Before the current Mercado Libertad existed, this area was already known as a commercial zone. It began as a tianguis (open-air market) and later became the site of an early market that was eventually demolished.
• Throughout the 19th century, the area developed from a temporary tianguis into a permanent one, mainly dedicated to selling food products.
• By the late 19th century, the decision was made to consolidate the market area and give it a more permanent structure. People from nearby neighborhoods and even from other parts of Guadalajara came to shop there.
• The main reason for constructing a proper building was to solve sanitation issues caused by waste accumulating around the tianguis.
• In 1888, the first market building was erected under architect Pedro Castellanos. It was a single-story structure in a colonial style, featuring high ceilings. It was named Mercado Libertad and originally occupied only half of its current size.

Why the name Mercado Libertad?

• Although many people know it as San Juan de Dios Market—named after the surrounding neighborhood and nearby church—its official name is Mercado Libertad.
• There isn’t a specific reason why it was called “Libertad.” The name was mainly influenced by the nationalistic discourse of the time. The first Mercado Libertad was built at the end of the 19th century and lasted into the early 20th century, coinciding with the Mexican Revolution, a period that celebrated freedom and the end of dictatorships.

Who built the Mercado Libertad we know today?

• Although the first market was successful, the growing number of vendors soon made the building insufficient. Merchants began setting up stalls in the hallways and outside, creating overcrowding.
• By the mid-20th century, the need for a new market arose. Rather than remodel the existing one, the decision was made to demolish it and start from scratch.
• In 1955, young engineer Alejandro Zohn was appointed to design the new market. His proposal originated from his thesis project for his Civil Engineering degree. It was a highly technical work focused on solving the challenges of constructing “shell structures”—a first in Guadalajara.
• Zohn’s thesis also established the number of stalls, corridors, and commercial areas, organizing them by category—meats, fruits and vegetables, clothing, crafts, leather goods, etc.—to prevent cross-contamination between products. Over time, this original layout has changed for various reasons.
• Zohn received guidance from several professors from the School of Architecture of Guadalajara: such as German architect Horst Hartung Franz assisted with urban design and connectivity; Italian architect Bruno Cadore helped with layout and space planning; fellow Italian Silvio Alberti handled the structural calculations; and Austrian architect Erich Coufal advised on public spaces, gardens, and the plaza.
• Since shell structures had never been built in Guadalajara, there was some uncertainty. Before finalizing the market, the government asked Zohn to build the Acoustic Shell in Parque Agua Azul as a test. Once completed successfully, construction of the curved roofs of Mercado San Juan de Dios began.
• The market features different types of shell structures: the exterior “umbrella” shells and the interior hyperbolic paraboloids, which make the building truly unique.
• In December 1958, under Governor Agustín Yáñez, the new Mercado Libertad was inaugurated, retaining its original name.

Why is Mercado Libertad a key example of modern architecture in Jalisco?

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• Built in the mid-20th century, this building is a hallmark of modern architecture—a style that expresses aesthetics not through ornamentation but through form, modularity, and materials.
• The fact that Mercado Libertad doesn’t have flat roofs makes it both functional and visually distinctive. The curved roofs also evoke the temporary tarps used in traditional open-air markets to provide shade.
• Zohn also incorporated regional materials such as glazed clay bricks, giving the structure a strong local character.
• The sense of place was further reinforced through the interior and exterior courtyards, reminiscent of traditional Mexican architecture, where patios, corridors, and passageways create natural pauses and light-filled spaces. These courtyards offer a refreshing break as you explore the market.
• Mercado Libertad is one of only three 20th-century buildings in Guadalajara declared a National Historic Monument. Its architectural innovation, dignified public spaces, regional materials, and harmony with its historical context make it a landmark of modern design.

The remodeling of Mercado Libertad

• In the early 1980s, due to growing demand, Alejandro Zohn was once again commissioned to remodel the market. A new upper level was added, lattices were installed to reduce sunlight, new bridges were built, and the parking lot entrance was relocated (it had previously been near the current light rail station, requiring cars to pass through several stalls to enter).

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What to eat at Mercado Libertad

• Some of the most iconic dishes at Mercado Libertad include caldo michi (a catfish or freshwater fish soup with vegetables), tortas locas (large sandwiches made with pork leg, vegetables, and cream), and the traditional birria tatemada, which you can also enjoy as a quesabirria (birria and cheese taco). The market is also known for its variety of Asian food stalls, where you can try dishes like ramen.

What to buy at Mercado Libertad

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• At Mercado Libertad, you’ll find almost everything—and at affordable prices:
• A wide range of handicrafts, including pottery, woven baskets, embroidered textiles, and traditional sweets
• Leather goods like boots, huaraches (sandals), and jackets
• Meats, cheeses, fruits, and vegetables
• Diverse and delicious local food
• Household items, especially kitchenware
• Herbs, ointments, and home remedies
• Religious articles

Explore Mercado Libertad—get lost and find yourself again in its maze of aisles. Admire its architecture inside and out, savor the food, and take home a beautiful handmade souvenir.

With information from architect David Lozano, director of the MoMo Gdl outreach project

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