Quiahuiztlán

Quiahuiztlán is an archaeological site on the very coast of Veracruz and arguably most famous for the fantastic Cerro de los Metates that rises above the entire landscape like something from a sci-fi illustration. The cerro itself seems otherworldly, and lends an air of un-believability to the site. One can't help but think the ancient Totonac people who settled here must have been equally profoundly influenced by this megalith emerging from the same green earth, even back then. 

Back then was mostly between the sixth and ninth centuries, CE. The name we use today is a Nahuatl descriptor that breaks down to mean simply place of abundant rain. But the site was originally Totonac in style and culture. The site was contemporary with better-known ​El Tajín, and shares many characteristics with that site, especially in that neither city has defensive fortifications. Interestingly, the people used the cerro itself which is terraced and still offers space for the growing of some limited crops out of the reach of marauding invaders.

Even still, the site was invaded towards the end of the 800 and again in the early 1400s. The ruins and cemeteries still visible today date from this period. About 15,000 people are thought to have lived in and around the complex when Europeans arrived on the coast. They soon founded Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz which can be visited here in the same trip. It's often cited as the first Spanish settlement in Mexico.

People visit today to see the Central Cemetery and Plaza although there are a number of worthwhile excavated sites all in and around the complex. Rock climbers take to the Cerro, for obvious reasons, while the rest of us gape. But any trip can include a jaunt to the village on the coast and it's own equally celebrated rock cliffs and overlooks. It's spectacular anyway you want to cut it up.  

People arrive from the Puerto Veracruz, which is only about one hour to the south along the coast. Poza Rica, on the other hand, is about two hours traveling north and west. There are often tour groups organized to depart from either city and which will allow those not driving to arrive in comfort to this particularly poignant area of the coast.