Jalpa de Cánovas

Jalpa de Cánovas is a tiny former hacienda on the border between Guanajuato and Jalisco. The little town today retains the name of the old Hacienda de Manuel Cánovas and most of the historic center of town is taken up by buildings that were once part of the complex. The main house is open to the public for guided tours and the nearby Señor de la Misericordia church features a Gothic bell tower.

If anything, visitors get a strong sense of the 19th century as a standard bearer of the hacienda system. And the town is simply surrounded by major works from that era. Much of the local history is documented in the Museo Luis Cabrera which presents a collection of equipment, photographs, and sacred art. The pecan orchards, local waterworks, and a stunning surrounding landscape of wheat fields, pecan orchards, and rolling hills make it an exquisite location. 

The Nueva and (old) Santa Efigenia Dams make for ideal destinations out in that striking landscape. But in town, look for the mole de nuez, a walnut variation on the classic sauce. Cecina enchiladas are also local favorites. 

Most visitors will stroll the town center before heading out into the countryside and between the fields of blue agave. There is a fully developed lodging industry, principally for people arriving from León some one hour to the northeast. The capital of Guanajuato is about two hours, more or less in the same direction. 

Those hoping to get here by train will need to wait until Mexico City - Guadalajara service resumes in the late 2020s. Bus service from Piedad de Cabadas, in Jalisco, will take just an hour just about directly to the north from the station. But for now, direct trips to Jalpa de Canova mostly originate in León, and the trip is unforgettable. ​