Coatepec is all but a suburb of Xalapa, the capital of Veracruz. But while the capital city can indeed bear a relatively big city feel, Coatepec does not. It's a modestly sized town of some 90,000 inhabitants, but it seems to perfectly retain the charm and like-ability of towns much smaller. One wouldn't be at all surprised here to hear the shopkeepers whistling, or the crowds cheering off the side of the football field.
Coatepec residents proudly proclaim "We are coffee, we are sugarcane, we are orchids, fog and mountains." Indeed, the town is very much the coffee capital of Veracruz, and probably of Mexico, although towns like Cordoba and Orizaba, a bit further south take much of the fame for the industrialization of coffee. In Coatepec, one gets a better idea of the craft and tradition of the Ethiopian-imported cash crop.
A Pueblo Magico since 2006, Coatepec has long been a bedroom community for the state capital and the only real university town in Veracruz. People visit for the Cerro de las Culebras, Miguel Hidalgo Park, and the outstanding orchid collection. The town has long revolved around the parish church of San Jeronimo, but with the advent of more and more outside visitors, the couple of museums have more than held their own.
The culinary scene revolves around pork ribs in dry chile, trout in a coffee sauce, a special mole de Coatepec, a red pipián sauce and chileatole de flor de izote. The town center buzzes with better eateries but the countryside hides a few more, even more gourmet.
Artisans work closely with local coffee growers and they all get together for an important Coffee and Orchid Fair. You'll find them active at other state and local celebrations. On off days, at least some of them will be in and around the central Mercado de Coatepec which is a fantastic place for lunch.
Buses leave Xalapa regularly for Coatepec and for nearby Xico, too. A lot of visitors will take in both little towns on the same colorful trip.
