Zozocolco de Hidalgo is a wonderful town in northern Veracruz some 61 km south of the city of Poza Rica. People come today for the deep Totonaca culture, although the colonial architecture and the stunning natural landscape make it something of a wonder to behold.
The Totonac cultures are indigenous to Veracruz and northern Puebla. Often associated with the greater Huasteca region, they remain a living and vital part of the mosaic of contemporary Mexico. Through an early alliance with the Spanish, Tzozocolco as it was originally written, has remained remarkably well intact over the centuries of its existence.
Visitors come for the waterfalls, the famous Pozas de Zozocolco, and the forest pools. The landscape is as dramatic and enchanted as any in the country. Like much of Veracruz, the beauty is understated and not over-developed.
Within the tiny town, the church is dedicated to San Miguel Arcángel. The plaza out front retains an ancient air of solemnity and quiet. Guests walk the narrow streets, but the idea that this is a mountainous village is unavoidable. Food shows an ancient and sometimes Maya influence in the Paxnikaka and Chilpozonte, gorditas and kixtak tamales and pulaclas.
Local craftsman carve figures from cedar wood and leather goods are omnipresent. But people can seek out all manner of novelties in the local market and in the immediately surrounding streets.
Buses don't generally arrive to Zozocolco. Limited taxi service and some local combi buses will arrive from Poza Rica, Huauchinango and sometimes from Tulancingo in Hidalgo. These are common stopping points for those driving, too.