Teopisca

Teopisca is a tiny little highlands midway between San Cristóbal de las Casas and Comitán. These two are perhaps even more famous than some travelers would prefer. But Teopisca is closer, geographically, and in spirit to towns like Huixtán, Amatenango del Valle, and Totolapa. These are the central highlands of Chiapas, and people come for the way of life, for the stark contrasts of color in flowers and seasons and presentations. 

The community results from a long history and deep cultural roots. The name comes from the Nahuatl and could mean god of the harvest or House of the Red Lord. Some 37,000 residents are scattered over 28 nearby communities, but the town itself is home to some 16,000. Many are indigenous Tzeltal whose traditional region, Los Llanos, grew to national fame for the quality of the cecina, and cooking that remains beloved by all who visit. The Mercado Publico Municipal Teopisca is a seven minute walk from the main town square. And here, visitors can take part in all manner of dishes prepared only here. 

On the main square is the Church of San Agustin dating from 18th century. Dominican in origin, dedication to San Agustín links it to the Jesuit tradition. The altarpiece in particular is widely celebrated. In fact, according to INAH, the town was originally settled more in the vicinity of the old cemetery. Most residents were forced to move by a plague of ants that occurred in 1732.  

Today visitors come especially en route to the Grutas del Obispo. Some two kilometers northwest of town, the cave system is not well marked but is a big favorite with spelunkers for the grand and unusual entrance. The caves are said to be better lighted, at least near the entrance, in the afternoon hours. The surrounding peaks, el Cerro del Tecolote and Cerro Pelón, are home to all kinds of local legends, mysteries, and traditions.

People are generally arriving to Teopisca through San Cristóbal. There is regular combi service between the two cities for the journey of just shy of an hour. Bigger bus services to Comitán say that they will not stop in Teopisca, so you may be better off looking for combi service at the intersection of Insurgentes and the Carretera Internacional, Barrio de San Diego.