Mercado Viejo
One of the great commercial centers of San Cristóbal, the market is a thriving and exciting place to see, smell, hear and shout, but to most of the city, more than anything it is a fantastic place to eat!
The Mercado Municipal José Castillo Tielemans is also known as the Mercado Viejo, the old market. One of the most important and accessible public markets in San Cristóbal de las Casas, the market is a daily stop for lots of residents, but for visitors to the city it also provides a glimpse into the authenticity, culture, and uniqueness of much of the entire region. With some 2,800 vendors, most of them from indigenous communities, the market sells everything from locallygrown products to artworks, necessities, and food - already prepared!
The market is more than 50 years old, at this location and it remains one of the biggest in the city. But a central market of some kind has been recorded within the city for more than 500 years. You will meet vendors of Tsotsil, Tseltal, Ch'ole, and Tojolabale backgrounds although some vendors from the distant Lacandon municipalities will sometimes sell here too. The diversity of natural products on sale can be impressive, many will come from the humid climates of the north, from the Central lowlands and from the heavily agricultural Comiteca Plateau.
The current building is named for the former state Governor, José Castillo Tielemans. He was instrumental in having the facility built during his term as governor from 1964 through 1970.
The market actually expanded into several satellite locations and these later broke off into the system of public markets the city enjoys today. For visitors, the market remains a great place to shop and see what interesting things are on sale. But more than that, the market represents an opportunity to eat local foods, and to support many women-owned small businesses and the farmers who supply them. The food is authentic and usually costs but a fraction of what you might pay in a restaurant or traditional eatery.
The giant market is also central to everything in San Cristóbal. From the back of the cathedral, just follow the Calle Gral. M. Utrilla northward. The walk takes just about ten minutes.