Oxkutzcab

Oxkutzcab is a town of some 27,000 people a half hour along the highway after the city of Ticul and just 20 minutes south of the magical town ofManí. The town is known as the orchard of the Yucatán for the outstanding trade in oranges, lemons, mandarins, avocado, mango, papaya, mamey, and plums. In the Mayan tongue, the name can be translated as place of breadnuts, tobacco, and honey, even today recalling the place of these traditional foodstuffs in the economy of the ancient city.

It's still a largely agricultural economy. But in addition to the lorries full of fruit, visitors come for the Orange Fair late each November and early December. But year round, the municipal market provides vibrant flavors, and usually music too. Area spices, textiles, and handmade goods are everywhere on view. Authentic Yucatan cuisine invites market goers to sample salbutes, panuchos, roast suckling pig, and of course, the juice from all that fruit is being squeezed left and right. The market largely took over the old atrium of the main town church, so it's not easy to miss. 

The church and former monastery, dedicated to Saint Francis of Assisi, is one of the oldest in the state. Construction began in 1581, and it was only finally finished between 1693 and 1699. By the late 19th century, it was roofless and all but abandoned. 

Oxkutzcab is a frequent stop on the Puuc Route that includes some 5-7 ancient cities sites from Labná to Uxmal, most of them south and west of town. It's strategic point for stopping at many of these ancient sites, but also a surprising colorful and vibrant spot all on its own. People come for the cenotes, caves, and natural areas, but it's also a strong symbol of Maya cultural identity and resistance. The Loltún Caverns are some five km south of town, and a refreshingly cool place to visit at the hottest hour of every afternoon. 

Most guests will arrive from Mérida, with plenty of bus service arriving daily after the not-quite two-hour journey. From the ​Maxcanú station on the Tren Maya, the trip is just a little over an hour with combi service picking up to meet the newly arriving trains.