San Miguel Arcángel de Tlaltizapán
Perhaps the favorite church of the Southern Liberation Army, it's still a pilgrimage point for students of the Revolution, and a remarkable work of 16th century religious architecture.
San Miguel Arcángel is the main parish church and long the very spiritual center of the beloved little town of Tlaltizapán. It remains one of the oldest and most beloved of churches in Morelos. Begun in 1548, it was finished in 1553, quite quickly by the construction standards of the time. The atrium was long used for evangelizing and converting the local population to Christianity and Roman Catholicism.
The Feast of Saint Michael the Archangel is still quietly celebrated every September 29th. But today people visit especially to witness the bullet holes still visible in the sides of the bell towers. One of the most famous parishioners of all time was the famous revolutionary, Emiliano Zapata. He is said to have been especially fond of the Black Christ figure still kept here, and although he had his mausoleum built here, his remains ended up in Cuautla, across the valley. Some of his most important generals are interred here, nevertheless.
Like many churches of great age in Mexico, this one is a great repository of religious art. The altarpiece is in the neoclassical style indicating that it dates from a much later period than the church itself. But beyond the many multi-colored statues and figures and paintings, the great former cloisters of the attached monasteries give one a sense of the great age and mystery of the place. The overt simplicity of the main church facade doesn't quite reveal the many secrets and shadows hidden away within.
The church is at the center of the little town that is also home to a half dozen other little chapels. The side chapels here have been nearly entirely lost to history, but just beyond the rear of the church, the town market opens up to visitors from near and far. It was named for Pablo Torres Burgos, a revolutionary killed early during what was still called the Maderista movement, in 1911 when he was leading that same movement in the state of Morelos. He was murdered by Federalist forces between here and Moyotepec about a half hour to the east.
Getting to Tlaltizapán is easy, and recommended for those seeking a quick and relaxing escape from Mexico City, or other parts of Morelos. It's one of the most popular weekend destinations, and the church and former monastery are just the beginning.
