Atzompa, Oaxaca

The Atzompa ruins stand on the west side of the city of Oaxaca, just north of the much better-known monumental complex at Monte Albán. In fact, this smaller complex was begun as a satellite of that larger city sometime between 650 and 900 CE. Even from that time, the city dedicated itself to the production of pottery and the signature green hue was once distributed all over North America. Some 90% of the population still works at producing this pottery. 

Excavations in the archaeological zone have been ongoing only since 2009. But in that short time, archaeologists uncovered three stunning ball game courts. One, at 45 meters long, is the biggest of any in the area, including those at Monte Alban. 

The town used to play something of a role a weigh-station on the road to Monte Alban. And even today, most visitors here will already have been to the larger site just to the south. But even still, the excavations here reveal something on a slightly more human and domestic scale. Although ritual areas are still plainly evident, the site at Atzompa survived in its adjoining city even as Monte Alban faded into memory. That makes it that much more vital and interesting a place to visit. 

Santa María Atzompa is very much a living, breathing community, even as a suburb of the state capital just nine kilometers to the east. Access to the site is that much easier and visitors get something of a sense of past life in both of the archaeological sites. Atzompa is usually far less crowded, slower paced, and perhaps for all that, more contemplative, too.