Mercado Genaro Codina

The Mercado Genaro Codina is mentioned here as much for the crooked plaza on one side and the magnificent Casa de Cultura on the other. The Casa Municipal de Cultura Zacatecas faces the Jardín Independencia to the south and takes up the better part of part of that side of the market. The south side of the building went up in the early 19th century. It was built to house the grain stockpiles for the city. But as it was later converted to a tobacco works, it came to be known as La Fábrica (The Factory). The Casa Cultura is today an educational and workshop cente r and remains one of the premier places for cultural activities especially for young people. 

The little plaza also dedicated to Genaro Codina may actually be in the middle of the great and sprawling market. It's a fascinating part of Zacatecas, and a must visit, with crooked alleys, hidden passageways, and vendors set up to sell from just a few square meters of space. 

Genaro Codina Fernández (1852-1901) was the most famous musician and composer from Zacatecas, ever. Although his best instrument was the harp, he actually played nine others. His most famous composition was the Marcha Zacatecas, still considered a second national anthem to the country, and an official song of the state. Written in 1892, it was later adapted for use by Pancho Villa and Benito Mussolini among many others. 

The market opened in 1906 as the Mercado Centenario. It was immediately successful as a terrific distribution point for produce, meats, and dry goods, and essentially intended to serve the entire city. In fact, it soon expanded to the scale we today into something between a municipal market and a neighborhood. It's also often referred to as the Mercado de Carne, but informally, people call it El Laberinto, (the Labyrinth) because it's simply that big and has dozens of entrances, exits, and passageways. It's still a super fun place to visit, and the atmosphere is perfect for people visiting with kids, and for the kids whose parents work there. They are many. 

It's also one of the easiest and most affordable and authentic places to eat, with dozens of independent and women-owned restaurants, eateries and just kitchens. But even if you only visit the Plaza de Genaro Codina, you're in for a treat. It's a perfect old-school city square as the pigeons will attest. There's usually something going on, and always something good to eat nearby.  

Hours: daily, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.